Brest
Sheltered harbour
Almost at the western tip of Brittany, Brest is an exceptional setting, a huge sheltered harbour, which resulted in a valued strategic asset for the French navy.
The Germans also valued and used it during WWII, and the city was subsequently thoroughly bombed at the end of the war, to be rebuilt in a 1950s concrete fashion, which lots of people hate, but I tend to like concrete.
Even close to the military zones dominated by concrete, the waters of the harbour can be clear and transparent. Sun and clouds create spectacular contrasts.
East of the harbour, the river Elorn is crossed by two bridges, giving a broad view of the northern part of the harbour.
On a misty morning I crossed the harbour, leaving from the trade harbour, meeting the barquentine Pogoria, going in front of the Goulet, and getting a view of Brest’s sea side.
Trade harbour
Close to the city center, the trade harbour shelters fishing and passenger ships, and visiting sailboats next to cranes.
The trade harbour also hosts huge tug boats, like Abeille Flandre, moored but ready to go any time the weather gets rough. Even their anchor is impressive.
The Abeille Flandre has been replaced by Abeille Bourbon, an even bigger tug boat.
A cargo terminal and a shipyard are further away from the Goulet, hosting foreign boats.
La Recouvrance
Close to the tug boats, there are old sailboats like La Recouvrance, on which you can sail.
Its rigging is a very controlled tangle of sails, ropes and pulleys.
Sailing for a day on this ship allows to discover Brest harbour in a very pleasant way.
La Recouvrance also goes on cruises, we sailed back from Aber Wrac’h to Brest.
The day before, night fell on the figurehead of the ship. We left the harbour and met Notre-Dame de Rumengol; then we passed pointe de Saint-Mathieu before entering Brest harbour.
Saint Guénolé
Another vintage boat on which you can sail in the harbour is Saint Guénolé, a scallops trawler with red sails built in 1948.
Brest 2008
Every 4 years since 1992 (when La Recouvrance was launched), a big gathering of vintage boats happens in Brest. Here are some of the ships during the 2008 gathering, in which I took part on my diving club’s boat.
Arsenal
Between the city center and the Goulet, the military has seized all the coastline and created a big arsenal to build and maintain ships and submarines. You can catch glimpses of Brest castle between the legs of the biggest portal crane.
In autumn, the sun sets behind the cranes of the arsenal, outlining the silhouettes of ships and cranes.
Since 2008, the new marina built on the sunset side of the trade harbour has changed the view.
Lots of areas in Brest and its surroundings are forbidden because they are used by the French navy. Downtown, the Penfeld river is a military zone with a masting crane and several workshops.
Maison Blanche
On the northern shore of the harbour, only a short length of coast is accessible, between the german submarine base and the Sainte-Anne lighthouse.
The Goulet
The Goulet (Narrows) is the entrance to the sheltered harbour of Brest.
Its cliffs are rocky slopes, and it is overlooked by 17th century defense forts and second world war german machine gun bunkers.
The Gouletopens out on the Iroise sea, sometimes under sun rays.
The entrance of the sheltered harbour is marked by the Portzic lighthouse and the Cormorandière rock.
From the Portzic lighthouse, the coastal trail leads to the Sainte-Anne duPortzic cove.
Further from the harbour, the Goulet widens. Pilot boats guide freighters with the delicate navigation when they enter the harbour.
The entrance of the Goulet on the sea side is marked by the Petit Minou lighthouse and by the beach with the same name, facing the storms.
A bridge links the lighthouse, which consists of 2 towers, to the shore. Coming back from Camaret, the coast is cut out against linear clouds.
Bertheaume cove
Out of the Goulet and out to sea, cliffs alternate with sand beaches.
There are also rocky coves in the cliffs.
Sometimes cruise ships have a stopover in Brest, leaving through the Goulet.
On the Trégana beach, waves roll and unfurl in foam.
Waves also splash on rocks and the setting sun glistens on them.
A tall sail ship waits in the cove before entering the harbour. A veil of fog clings to the shore. The Bertheaume fort closes the cove.
Pointe Saint-Mathieu
The pointe Saint-Mathieu is the place where the coast turns to the north, marked by a lighthouse and a ruined abbey.
Coast
The Corsen cape, north of Le Conquet, faces the Ouessant and Molène islands. Small sandy coves are sheltered between rocky granite capes.
Towards north, the shore goes down to sea level. From the cape, you can enjoy sunsets at sea, behind the islands.
Inland
Inland and northwest of Brest, the Kerloas menhir is a huge megalithic standing stone.